Lithium Polymer or LiPo batteries are a great new way of storing energy for portable devices from cell phones to RC helicopters.

They’re great because they can store 350% (approximately) more energy than a typical Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) battery pack and weigh 10% - 20% less. They can also discharge much more current than a NiCd battery and be fully charged in about an hour. LiPo batteries also don’t develop memory or voltage depression characteristics like NiCd batteries, and do not need to be discharged before being charged.

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But they’re not without their downside. Mishandling of these batteries can lead to fire, explosions and toxic smoke inhalation. In the rest of this guide, we’ll discuss how to charge, store and handle lithium polymer batteries safely so you can enjoy them again and again.

Please note that the information contained in this guide is for informational purposes only. You should consult your batteries manual for specific instructions regarding the handling, charging and safe usage of your lithium polymer batteries.

Charging

Lithium Polymer or LiPo batteries have very specific charging requirements and MUST only be changed by specific chargers designed to charge lithium polymer batteries.

A 1s or 1 cell LiPo battery has a nominal voltage of 3.7v. When fully charged it has a maximum voltage of 4.2v and when fully discharged, it should never go below 3.0v without risking cell damage.

A 5s4p battery pack means that the pack contains 5 cells in a series circuit and 4 cells in a parallel circuit.

Since each cell is 3.7v (nominal) a 5s LiPo battery has a nominal voltage of 18.5v, a fully charged voltage of 21.0v and a maximum discharged voltage of 15.0v before damage occurs.

When charging LiPo batteries, they must be charged at the voltage of the number of cells in series, therefore a 5s4p pack must be charged as a 5 cell pack.

The LiPo charger you’re using must be able to handle the cell count of the battery you are charging.

Most of the more expensive LiPo chargers will automatically detect the cell count of the battery being charged while the cheaper ones will require a manual setting. Wile some of the really good ones will allow you to manually select the cell count and then will double check it automatically for you.

Please also note that some chargers (such as those used for toys or cell phones) are made to charge a specific cell count and are not configurable for other cell counts. It is very important that these chargers only be used to charge the batteries they are designed for.

Also, chargers that auto detect the cell count of a LiPo battery can sometimes be wrong. They use the current voltage of the battery to determine the cell count and if the battery is fully charged or at a lower voltage than it should be, it may read the cell count incorrectly. This is why it is very important to double check that it reads he right cell count which is typically displayed on the LCD display.

For example a 5 cell 18.5 volt LiPo battery that’s been depleted to less than 15 volts may be confused with a 4 cell, 14.8v battery and thus charged as such. Also, a fully charged 5 cell battery at 21.0v may be confused as a 6 cell 22.0v battery and charged as such.

Charging a lithium polymer battery at a higher voltage than it’s rated for, or overcharging it, can lead to a fire or an explosion 

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LiPo Battery Charging Tips

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• Always use a charger made to charge LiPo packs.
• Double check that the settings for the lithium polymer charger are correct for the pack being charged – this includes the cell count as well as the current settings.
• In general, most lithium polymer batteries should be charged to no more than 4.2 volts per cell or depleted to less than 3.0 volts per cell. There are new generation batteries available that can handle higher / lower voltages, but they are still new and thus are the exception to the rule.
• Ensure that charging leads are connected correctly. Reverse charging can lead to cell damage or a fire or explosion.
• Always charge LiPo batteries on surfaces that won’t catch on fire such as cement, steel, ceramic or stone. Wooden tables and carpeted floors are not recommended charging surfaces.
• Do not charge batteries near flammable products or liquids.
• Never charge a LiPo battery while inside your model or other electronic device. If it catches fire it can lead to total destruction of the item it is being charged in.
• LiPo batteries should be charged within a temperature range of 0C to 50C. Batteries charged outside this temperature range may experience leakage, heat generation or cell damage.
• Never leave a charging lithium polymer battery pack unattended.
• Do not charge inside an automobile, especially while driving.
• Do not store batteries inside an automobile.
• Do not charge a lithium polymer battery pack at a rate over 1C.
• Never charge a LiPo pack that has ballooned or swelled due to over / under charging or from a crash.
• Never charge a lithium polymer battery pack that has been punctured or damaged in a crash.
• Never, under ANY
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  circumstances let the positive and negative battery leads touch. It can lead to cell ballooning, cell damage or fire or an explosion.

• Have a fire extinguisher near the charging area or a large bucket of dry sand. Do not try to distinguish with water.
• If you notice your LiPo battery pack is swelling, stop the charging process immediately, put the battery in a safe container and observe it for 15 minutes.

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LiPo Battery Handling & Storage

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• Keep LiPo battery packs WELL out of reach of children.
• Do not put battery packs in pockets or bags where they can short circuit.
• Do not store or transport or store batteries where they can come into contact with sharp or metallic objects.
• Do not store your LiPo pack in extreme temperatures below 0C or above 50C.
• Always store your LiPo pack in a safe and non flammable container away from flammable objects. A LiPo Sack or metal / ceramic storage container is best.
• Always store your LiPo’s partially charged. They will maintain their performance levels over time and there’s no need to cycle them unless stored for periods longer than 3-6 months.

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Other LiPo Battery Tips

• Do not immerse the battery in water or allow the battery to get wet.
• Do not short circuit the battery.
• Do not pierce the lithium polymer battery with a sharp object – it will lead to ignition or an explosion.
• Do not short circuit the battery.
• Do not solder directly to the battery.
• Do not hit the battery with a hard object such as a hammer or rock.
• Do not dispose of in fire or heat.
• Do not use the battery with the positive and negative terminals reversed.
• Do not disassemble or modify the battery.
• Do not fully discharge your LiPo battery pack. Discharging a LiPo beyond it’s critical minimum voltage (often 3.0v) can cause damage to the battery.
• Do not breath in the smoke fumes of a LiPo battery that is on fire. They are toxic.
• When mailing or shipping LiPo batteries, always ship them at a 30% charged state for safety reasons.
• When storing batteries for extended periods, store at a half charged state.
• To dispose of a LiPo battery, discharge it fully then place it in a bucket of salt water for one week. To dispose of, follow your municipal battery disposal guidelines.
• If your battery becomes damaged, do not place it on a flammable surface - it’s possible that a chemical reaction can take place which could cause a fire. Put the battery in a safe and non flammable place and observe it for at least an hour.
• If the electrolyte in the cells gets on your skin, thoroughly wash with soap and water. If it gets in your eyes, rinse thoroughly with cool water and seek immediate medical attention.
• Finally, always follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and charging guidelines for lithium polymer battery packs

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YOUR ENGINES EXPLAINED

 

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A reader asks, “how do you determine the cc of an engine if it is measured in so many different ways?” The confusion comes in the way the engine size is expressed by different RC manufacturers. Some might use something like 2.5cc or 4.4cc while others use a number like .15 or .27. How do these numbers compare to each other?

Typical RC Engine Displacements

Common RC engine displacements range from about .12 to .46 and larger. These numbers that begin with a decimal point are the displacement in cubic inches. Sometimes the abbreviation ci is appended to the measurement. But just remember that a .18 engine is actually .18ci or .18 cubic inches of displacement.That same .12 to .46 range, expressed in cubic centimeters would be approximately 1.97cc to 7.5cc of displacement. You can use an online conversion tool to quickly convert from cc to ci or ci to cc. Here’s a small reference list (cc is rounded) to give you an idea of how cubic inches compare to cubic centimeters:

• .12ci - 2.0cc
• .15ci - 2.5cc
• .18ci - 3.0cc
• .21ci - 3.5cc
• .25ci - 4.1cc
• .27ci - 4.4cc
• .32ci - 5.2cc
• .36ci - 5.9cc
• .46ci - 7.5cc

Determining Size by Numbers in a Name

Studying the manufacturers specifications is the best way to determine engine size, but manufacturers will often include a number in the name of the vehicle or the name of the engine that represents the displacement. For example, the HPI Firestorm 10T is described as having a G3.0 engine. The 3.0 refers to the displacement of 3.0cc. That 3.0cc is the equivalent of a .18 engine.The Supertigre G-27CS engine, found in the DuraTrax Warhead EVO is a .27 big block engine. It has a 4.4cc displacement. Traxxas often puts the engine size right in the name of the vehicle, to differentiate an earlier model with a different engine size. The Jato 3.3, the T-Maxx 3.3, and the 4-TEC 3.3

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all feature the TRX3.3 engine. That’s 3.3cc, which translates to something like a .19 engine when expressed in cubic inches.

RPM and Horsepower

In discussing the power or performance of a specific RC engine, displacement is only one indicator. RPM (revolutions per minute) and horsepower (HP) are also indicative of how the engine performs.Horsepower is a standard unit for measuring the power of an engine. An engine with a .21ci displacement can typically produce between 2 and 2.5 HP at around 30,000 to 34,000 RPM. Some manufacturers might emphasize the horsepower of their engine. You’ll have to refer to the individual specs to determine the actual displacement of a specific horsepower engine.

FUEL CHARTS

Introduction
The ‘uniflow’ fuel setup for glow powered models is an ingenious way of ensuring that fuel pressure at the engine’s carburettor does not vary with the amount of fuel in the tank (yes, it will still vary with muffler pressure but more about that later).  If your engine works fine then I would leave your setup alone!  However, if you suspect that your engine runs lean towards the end of the tank, you should consider uniflow as a possible solution.  Although a very simple design, it’s not immediately obvious how it works so I have written this explanation in the hope that it will be helpful.

What is it?
The uniflow fuel system is one where there are three connections to the fuel tank - one is a breather to the top of the tank (normally blocked off) and the other two are clunks - one coming from the muffler and one going to the engine (or header tank if fitted).  This configuration means that the column of fuel in the tank is supported by atmospheric pressure and therefore its level does not affect pressure at the carburettor. Dead Heat trailer

There are two ways of explaining how uniflow works.  Click here for a more practical explanation or else read on…

First Principles
Before I get down to a detailed description of the uniflow system itself, let’s go through a few basic principles of fluid mechanics.  We will need to talk about fuel pressure and a convenient way to refer to it here is in terms of ‘inches of fuel’.  For example, look at Figure 1 where we have a fuel tank which is 2 inches high and which is full of fuel.  We can say that the pressure of the fuel at the bottom of the tank (Point A) is 2 inches because it will support a column of fuel two inches high.  We can prove this by adding a tube to the bottom of the tank and seeing how far up the tube the fuel will be pushed.  Of course, it will rise to be level with the liquid in the tank.

FIGURE1

It is important to realise that the pressure at any level in a static liquid is exactly the same at any other point in the liquid at the same level.  Thus, the pressure at Point A is the same as at Point B.

Another important point is that this pressure is defined in relation to the atmospheric pressure that is all around us.  The actual pressure at Point A is defined by the rather unscientific equation:

2 inches of fuel + the barometric pressure that day = a heck of a lot!

Fortunately, we don’t have to worry too much about this but atmospheric pressure does have an important part to play in this system.  Most fuel tanks have a vent or breather of some sort at the top to allow air in as the fuel is used.  Looking at Figure 1, if we were to block this breather, fuel would not be able to get out of the pipe at Point A because the atmospheric air pressure will push it back and prevent a vacuum being formed at the top of the tank.  You may have heard the saying “nature abhors a vacuum”!

Getting the Fuel to the Engine
Let us imagine that the engines in glow-powered models were always below the fuel tank.  In this scenario we could rely on gravity to supply the fuel to the carburettor.  However, this simple system causes two problems.

The first is of course is that the engine will not get any fuel if the model is an aircraft and it flies inverted.  The clunk in the tank ensures that the line falls into the fuel (wherever this happens to be) but this will not help if the fuel has to run uphill to get to the carburettor.  This is why we connect a pipe from the muffler on the engine to a breather at the top of the tank - this creates a little pressure in the tank which pushes the fuel up the fuel line to the engine.  To give you an example, on a recent test on my 54-sized four-stroke engine, at full throttle the pressure produced by the muffler was sufficient to support a column of about 5 inches of fuel.  In other words, the carburettor could be 5 inches above the level of the fuel in the tank and still work okay.

The second problem is that even if the muffler pressure is constant, the fuel pressure at the carburettor will vary because when the tank is full the pressure will be high and when the tank is nearly empty the fuel pressure will be low.  This is a nuisance because if you set the engine’s needle valve correctly for a full tank it will be slightly wrong when the tank is empty and visa versa.  Any engine without a separate fuel pump or uniflow setup will suffer from this problem and you sometimes hear people complain that their engine runs lean as the tank empties.

The Uniflow Setup
Now imagine a situation (see Figure 2) where both the breather (at Point B) and the line to the engine (at Point A) are situated at the bottom of the tank.  This diagram gives a simplified purely schematic version of the uniflow setup.

Figure 2

Remember our basic principle (above) that the pressure at Point A is the same as at Point B as long as it is at the same level.  Therefore, if the pressure at the breather (which is connected to the muffler) is, for example, 5 inches of fuel, then the pressure in the pipe to the engine will be the same.  The fuel in the tank cannot run into the engine under gravity alone because to do so, a vacuum would be created in the area at the top of the tank - atmospheric pressure prevents this happening.  Instead, fuel is supplied to the engine only at the pressure supplied by the muffler - as the fuel is used, gases from the muffler gradually bubble in to fill the tank.  The neat part about this is that it doesn’t matter how much fuel there is in the tank, the delivered fuel pressure will always be the same as the pressure in the pipe from the muffler.  Therefore, you can set your mixture setting safe in the knowledge that it will not vary depending on the amount of fuel in the tank.  Note that neither the standard setup nor uniflow will prevent the pressure changing with the revs.  However, although this is less noticeable (and therefore works best) on models where the revs stay relatively constant, e.g. on helicopters, it will always be better than having not having the uniflow setup at all.

The way that the uniflow tank setup is put together in practice is as follows… download Iris movie

Hold on, what’s the vent for?
Yes, you do need a vent at the top of the tank to let the air out when you are refuelling.  However, this is normally blocked off with a plug.

A more practical explanation…
When people ask me about the uniflow setup, I sometimes find it is easier to describe it in practical terms so let me try to explain it this way…

Find an old coke bottle or something similar to represent the fuel tank.  Fill a sink full of water and put the bottle into the sink and allow it to fill up with water.  Then, keeping the bottle’s opening submerged, turn it upside down and lift it out so that just the opening is under water.  The bottle remains full of water.  Why doesn’t the water drain out?  Well, this is because the atmosphere is pushing on everything all around us including the surface of the water in the sink and, although this is difficult to imagine, this is keeping the water in the bottle.  In fact, the atmosphere (at sea level) pushes hard enough to keep the water in a bottle that is up to 32 feet high!  If the bottle was taller than that, a vacuum would be formed at the top because the weight of air above us isn’t sufficient to support any more.  In fact, this is why water pumps in mines are situated underground rather than on the surface (unless it’s a very shallow mine!).  It is also the principle behind how mercury barometers work except that since mercury is so much heavier that water, atmospheric pressure will only support a column of mercury about a metre or so in length.  This is lucky because otherwise barometers would be so tall you wouldn’t be able to fit one in your hallway!  Anyway, getting back to our upside-down bottle, if we want to get the air out, we have got to push it out with compressed air.  Fortunately, we live at the bottom of a sea of air that is conveniently at the right pressure to do this.  Therefore, if we bubble some air into the bottle with say a drinking straw, the same amount of water will come out.  Try it, you’ll see what I mean.

What I am trying to get at here is that it doesn’t matter how much fuel you have in the tank, if air can’t get in then the fuel inside isn’t going to come out.  Now, take a look at another couple more examples…

Figure 3

Look at the fuel tank in Figure 3.  Assuming that the outlets are not connected to anything and are open to the air, fuel will drain out of the pipe at Point A quite quickly and this will gradually decline to a trickle as it runs out.  Going back to a full tank again, if we blow into Point B, fuel will spurt out of Point A even faster than before and as the tank empties, although the flow will gradually slow down, it will not get as slow as it did when you weren’t blowing.  What is happening here is that there are two forces at work.  First of all there is the pressure of the weight of fuel which gradually decreases as the fuel runs out.  Secondly, there is the air pressure at Point B.  In the first situation it was open to the atmosphere so it was exactly balanced by the air pressure at Point A so it made no difference.  However, in the second example, you blew into Point B creating a pressure difference between the two outlets and this pushed the fuel out faster.  Had we blocked Point B, no fuel would have come out at all because it will be held back by air pressure just like the upside-down bottle in the sink.

Now let’s look again at the simplified uniflow setup.

Figure 4

Here, no fuel can get out of Points A or B (provided they are at exactly the same height) because the atmosphere is pushing the fuel back.  If we now add a little pressure to Point B then the same pressure will ‘appear’ at Point A.  The level of the fuel in the tank will make no difference.  The fuel tank could be be ten feet high and the pressure would still be that applied to Point B.

What about carburettor ’suck’
A lot of people talk about carburettor suck and say that this is what feeds the engine.  Well, all I will say is that in a closed system like the fuel system on most glow-powered models, the ’suck’ from the carburettor and the blow from the muffler amount to the same thing.  The ’suck’ that people refer to is really a lowering of pressure in the carburettor in relation to atmospheric pressure and gives almost precisely the same effect as a little more muffler pressure.  As stated at the beginning, the uniflow system only eliminates the effects of the changing level of fuel in the tank.

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If the pressure at the carburettor varies with revs, what’s the big deal?
Well, the ‘big deal’ is that when you are setting the needle valve on your engine, you are doing so with a specific amount of fuel in the tank and as soon as that level changes, the pressure at the carburettor will change and therefore the mixture will change slightly.  How many times have you heard people say something like “I always let the engine run a little rich just in case…“  What the modelling community have learnt over the years is that engines tend to run a little lean as the tank gets empty and that by setting the needle a little rich when they are ‘fine tuning’ the engine just before take-off (i.e. with a full tank of fuel) that they are making allowances for the leaner mixture as the tank empties.

I don’t need the uniflow system - I have a header tank
I have spoken to some people (particularly aircraft modellers) who believe that by mounting the header tank higher than the main tank, this will create more fuel pressure into the carburettor.  However, this is not so because since it is a sealed fuel system, the weight of the fuel in the pipe leading up to the header tank tends to reduce the pressure in the header tank and thus the pressure at the carburettor.

Figure 5

It works rather like a siphon in reverse.  See Figure 5 (note that this is a standard setup but the following is also true for a uniflow).  When you used a siphon to get fuel out of your dad’s car, you dipped a plastic tube down into his tank and sucked until the pipe was full of fuel (trying not to get a mouthful of gas!).  You then blocked the end of the pipe with your finger and lowered it into your can so that the end was lower than the level in his tank.  The fuel magically flows from his car into your can!  Unfortunately, the same thing happens with a header tank that is higher than your main tank so you have to use the muffler pressure to overcome the weight of fuel in the pipe.  The idea that a header tank gives you more fuel pressure is a myth.

Note:  If you run a header tank (that is higher than the main tank) and you run the main tank dry at the end of the run, at the point where the fuel in the main tank runs out, the mixture will actually richen because the siphon effect will stop.

Do the two lines in the tank get tangled?
In my experience the answer to this question is no.  I have yet to experience a problem with the lines in the tank getting tangled or hear of  any problems of this kind from anyone else.  I believe this is for two reasons.  First, the lines are made of silicon tubing which tends to resist tangling.  Second, the forces on the two clunks are the same so they will always tend to be thrown to the same part of the tank.  All tanks are different so my advice would be to test your tank manually before fitting it into the helicopter.  Shake it around and check that the lines are free to move and settle neatly at the lowest point in the tank.

What about when you fly inverted?
During inverted flight, the clunks fall down to the ‘top’ of the tank and the system works the same way as in normal flight.

What about fuel pumps and regulators?
Any system that is going to deliver a constant flow of fuel to the carburettor without any variations due to fuel level, yaw rate, orientation, etc. has got to be a good idea.  However, if you’re going to use a pump, be careful to filter the fuel that goes into them as they are quite sensitive to dirt.  Otherwise, if they’re good enough for the top boys, they’re good enough for me.  See here for a glimpse of Curtis Youngblood’s setup.  (Note: At the 3D Masters 2004, I noticed Kazuya Yamaguchi was running an Iron Bay fuel regulator.)

Are there any downsides at all?
There are two downsides to the system… Back to the Future Part III dvd Dolls dvdrip

First, in theory, it is possible that if the engine is suddenly cut from full throttle to idle, that the carburettor could run rich for a fraction of a second.  The theory goes like this…  At full throttle the tank is being pressurised to its greatest extent.  If the engine is suddenly cut to idle, the pressure at the muffler is also cut and the pressure in the tank will want to ‘get out’ - i.e. equalise with the surrounding atmosphere.  There are two ways it can do this - either via the carburettor or the muffler.  On a conventional setup, the pressure can get out more easily through the muffler than the carburettor because the line is full of gas.  In the uniflow setup, the line is full of fuel which is more viscous than the air and is therefore more difficult to push out.  The result is that for the fraction of a second while that tiny bit of fuel is pushed back up the muffler line, the mixture will be slightly richer than it would normally be.  However, in practice the volume of air that wants to get out of the tank is so miniscule that the pressure will be very quickly equalised.  I have yet to find anyone notice let alone complain about this effect.  If it was a problem, I would recommend that a slower servo be placed on the throttle control unless a similar effect could be achieved electronically.

The second problem is that since the top of the fuel tank is sealed, when the aircraft is in the pits, i.e. not flying, it is quite possible for the vapour pressure of the fuel to start to push the fuel into the muffler.  This can be a nuisance if the muffler is below the level of the tank because once the flow of fuel starts, it will carry on under siphon action.  I get over this simply by placing a fuel clamp on the line which I engage when I’m not flying.

An Example - Fitting a uniflow system to a Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 Helicopter*
If you take a look at the fuel tank in a Thunder Tiger ‘Raptor’, you get a built-in vent (which by its design can only be used for that purpose) and a bung which has only one pipe going through it - rather inconvenient if you want two pipes with clunks.  This is how I got around the problem.  I used a lathe to turn up an aluminium bung with an outside diameter of 5/16″ to go through the rubber grommet.  Then I used a milling attachment to drill accurately two holes 73 thousandths of an inch either side of the centre of the new bung to accept some small annealed copper tube.  I then glued them in from the back with two-part, high strength epoxy.  This is the result…

 

Note that because of the extra length of the brass tubes, you would be wise to use extra-flexible silicon tubing to ensure that the clunks fall correctly to the bottom of the tank (in whichever orientation the tank is placed).  Note also that in the right-hand picture, the grommet is temporarily off the aluminium bung, ready for insertion into the tank.  There is very little room to play with when you come to install it.

 

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Mr. St. Nick psp welcome at the goings on at lleynmacas you can see from this page this is the events page for lleynmac  and also the map of how to get to the club,lleynmac  is a warm and friendly club with under 50 flyers,it probably is on the best site in the uk thanks to a local farmer which has allowed us on this site,if you visit our site on the A499 BETWEEN PWLLHELI AND LLANBEDROG TURN OFF FOR (LLEYN GOLF)-ONCE YOU GET ON site you will drive thru the site golf coarse wich is exelent and then thru the barriers on to the caravan site which also hosts for touring caravans and shop on site,THEN you keep going thru the caravan site you will come to the farmers sheds on your right hand side please pass this and on to our field aprox 100 yards beyondFOR GOLFING AND CARAVAN PARK WEBSITE PLEASE CLICK THE LINK BELLOW MANY THANKS

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FRIDAY

 

 

 

  4TH NOVCHRISTMAS 2009 MEAL

thanks to all that came

 

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well another great night  at the bryn cynnan again this year,special thanks to the porthmadog club who attended and also to friends of club members who came too,thease social evenings is a very good thing for the club  ,just been thinking about things maybe another evening out maybe around the month of march  which would start the flying season ,if any of you would like this please call me or email me  best regards DYLAN ROBERTS    p,s as most of my time over the next months will be going to flying events during evenings and some days would you please email me many thanks 

flyeruk-admin@tiscali.co.uk

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The Menestrel was designed by Henri Nicollier and he flew the first single-seat version, the HN433 on 25th November 1962. The two seater HN700 followed some twenty-four years later the project starting in 1986 and first taking to the air on July 7th 1989. 

The aircraft is a two seat low wing monoplane of classic wood and fabric construction and features a single-piece wing with plywood leading edges and fabric covering aft of the spar.

Specification: Cobra video

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Wing Span 26 ft., length 17 ft., height 5ft., wing area 108 ft., empty weight 650 lbs., gross weight 1124 lbs., engine 1600cc to 2000cc, 80hp (Typically VW conversion). 

Performance:

Cruise speed at 2800 rpm 110 mph., max cruise speed 124 mph, stall speed 44mph., landing speed 64 mph., rate of climb solo 1280 fpm., dual 1181 fpm., range 590 miles (950km).

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